Franklin Electric Booster Pump Packages
- Inline Controls starts your pump on flow, not on a pressure drop
- Pairs with submersible or surface pumps up to 20 amps
- Four models: FIL-SWC16, FIL-ADJ16-1G, FIL-ADJ16-2G, and FIL-CTL20
- Run-dry protection on every model shuts the pump off safely
- Can replace the pressure switch and bladder tank in many systems
- Send us your pump HP and voltage and we will match the control
If your pump clicks on for every glass of water and the shower swings from strong to weak, a Franklin Electric booster pump package can end that cycling without replacing the pump. The fix is one flow-sensing control in place of the pressure switch and the big bladder tank.
That control is the Inline Controls Pressure Boosting System. Below you will find how it runs a pump, which pumps it fits, and the four models side by side.
Inside the Franklin Electric Booster Pump Package
The Inline Controls booster pump system is a control unit that installs in the discharge line and runs your existing pump. It pairs with submersible or surface pumps from 1/2 to 3 HP and up to 20 amps, on 115 V or 230 V power. Your pump supplies the pressure, and the control decides when it runs.
Pumps the Control Can Run
The control works with residential and light commercial pumps inside its 20 amp limit.
- Submersible well pumps
- Surface booster pumps, including smaller BT4 and MH boosters
- Shallow well jet pumps
- Convertible jet pumps in shallow or deep well setups
If you run a jet pump, prime it before first startup. The control does not change a pump's priming needs. Both styles in our Franklin jet pump lineup pair well with it.
Flow Sensing vs a Pressure Switch
A standard pressure system waits for pressure to fall to a set point, then starts the pump. That lag is why showers surge and fade.
The Inline Controls unit watches for flow instead. When a fixture opens, a flow sensor starts the pump right away. When flow stops, the pump shuts off.
- Flow-based activation on every model
- Run-dry protection on every model, to save the pump's mechanical seal
- Daily motor rotation on the CTL model, which turns the motor at least once every 24 hours so it does not lock up
- Automatic restart after a fault on the CTL model
- Pressure gauge on the ADJ 230 V and CTL models
- 1-inch or 1-1/4-inch MNPT connection, for water up to 150 degrees F
FIL-ADJ16, FIL-SWC16, and FIL-CTL20 Compared
Match the control to your pump's nameplate HP, voltage, and amps. These are the four models we list.
| Model | Max pump size | Voltage | Max current | Extra features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FIL-ADJ16-1G | Up to 3/4 HP | 115 V | 16 A | Standard flow control |
| FIL-ADJ16-2G | Up to 2 HP | 230 V | 16 A | Pressure gauge |
| FIL-SWC16 | Up to 2 HP | 115 V or 230 V | 16 A | Dual voltage |
| FIL-CTL20 | Up to 3 HP | 115 V or 230 V | 20 A | Daily rotation, auto restart, gauge |
Pick the CTL20 for a vacation home, a seasonal cabin, or any pump that runs unattended. The daily rotation and automatic restart keep water flowing when nobody is there to reset it.
Over 3 HP, Over 20 Amps, or Hot Water
Skip the Inline Controls system if your pump is over 3 HP or draws more than 20 amps. It is not rated for that load.
It is also not a variable frequency drive. It starts and stops the pump but does not change motor speed. For very high flow or a new build that needs a complete pump, start with our Franklin booster pump options instead.
Do not use it on water hotter than 150 degrees F. For hot water circulation, a pump rated for higher temperatures is the better route.
A Control Costs Less Than a New Pump
The CTL20 costs more than the ADJ16 models because it adds daily rotation, automatic restart, and a higher amp rating. A 16 amp model is the lower-cost pick for a small pump.
The bigger saving often comes from what you do not buy. Keeping a good pump and removing a worn bladder tank usually costs less than replacing the whole system.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you need a pressure tank if you have a booster pump?
You often do not need a pressure tank if your booster pump runs on a flow-based control like Franklin's Inline Controls system. A standard pressure switch system needs a bladder tank so the pump does not start for every small draw. The Inline Controls unit prevents that rapid cycling on its own, so many homes can remove the large tank. A small expansion tank can still help in some systems to absorb water hammer and pressure spikes.
Why does my booster pump keep turning on and off?
A booster pump keeps turning on and off, often because the bladder tank has lost its air charge, the pressure switch is set too close, or a small leak lets pressure drop. This rapid cycling heats the motor and wears the switch. Recharging or replacing the tank can fix it. A flow-based control such as the Franklin Inline Controls system avoids the problem because it runs the pump only while water is actually flowing.
Where should a booster pump be installed?
A booster pump should be installed after the water enters the building and before the fixtures it serves, usually near the main supply line in a dry, frost-free spot. The Inline Controls unit goes in the pump's discharge line, between the pump and the plumbing. Leave room to reach the control and any valves. Confirm the supply voltage matches the model and that the pump's nameplate amps stay under the control's rating.
How do you reset a pressure pump?
You reset a pressure pump by first fixing the water supply problem, then restarting the pump at its control. Franklin's Inline Controls FIL-CTL20 adds automatic restart after a fault, so it does not need a manual restart. With any control, find the cause before you restart. If the pump trips dry again and again, look for a low well, an air leak in the suction line, or a closed valve.
Request a quote with your pump's model number, HP, and voltage, and we will confirm the right Inline Controls model.